Mietta's Guide to Australian Restaurants

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Location

Donovans

Ph: 9534 8221 ; 40 Jacka Blv, ST KILDA 3182 www.donovanshouse.com.au
Modern Australian, $$$, ** for Food & Ambience, Good Wine List
Open 7 days noon-10.30pm, Closed 25th december dinner; Licensed; AE DC MC V
Chef Robert Castellani (10-1-10) Owner Gail & Kevin Donovan, Richard Fisher & Jeannie Donovan-Fisher (10-1-10)
The bar at Donovan's
Photo: Tony Knox

Mietta's Review
The Donovan's were in hotels and their care and attention to the detail of the concept are very much in evidence. The conceit in this case being that the restaurant is their house into which you have been invited. A privilege indeed, as few of us have palatial houses on the beach that could double as a ski lodge. It is a big hit with its comfortable, over forty-year-old clientele. Service is good as the Donovan's are always 'around'. Prices are what you would expect from such an upmarket establishment. Robert Castellani's 'Italian' food is the star of this comfortable seaside home.

Other published opinions
Age Good Food Guide 2010 Score: 17/20

Gourmet Traveller 2010 Australian Restaurant Guide Score: * "Donovans has long been one of the restaurants where Melbourne goes to celebrate, to throw caution to the wind and dive head-first into the deep end of the (remarkable) wine list. The detail in the fitout is a small marvel: there's plenty of personality and warmth in this St Kilda designer beach house, complete with an open fire, yet it remains uncluttered"

Age Good Food Guide 2009 Score: 17/20

Gourmet Traveller 2009 Australian Restaurant Guide Score: * "This sprawling beach house, with its Santa Fe decorative touches and more-is-more approach to style, is all about reassurance. It's one of the few really stellar seaside locations in the Melbourne restaurant firmament, a fact reflected in the largeish prices listed on the menu"

Age Good Food Guide 2008 Score: 17/20

Gourmet Traveller 2008 Australian Restaurant Guide Score: ** "While the inspiration for this bayside restaurant is relaxed beach house, the experience is far more chic than shack"

Herald Sun Eat, Bob Hart, 14-10-06 "Those who occupy tables in the airconditioned and reassuring interior of Donovans are seldom skaters, however. More like high-rollers, actually.They can be heard to remark on the curious attire, hairstyles and bodily adornments favoured by locals"

Age Good Food Guide 2006 score 17/20

Gourmet Traveller 2006 Australian Restaurant Guide ** "Donovans readily springs to mind as the restaurant to impress overseas and interstate visitors. The reborn bathers' pavilion opening out onto St Kilda beach offers a very Melbourne experience: not flashy or showy, but hospitable, with responsive service and impeccable food and wine."

Gourmet Traveller 2006 Australian Restaurant Guide Best views "Donovans does similarly good things (to Stokehouse) on the water"

Age Good Food Guide 2005

Gourmet Traveller 2005 Restaurant Guide "Relax. Take in the sea view. Absorb the beach-house atmosphere. You've never been in better hands. There's nothing like walking into a restaurant and getting the feeling these folk know just what they're doing and will feed you just how you like it."

The Foodies' Guide 2004,Allan Campion & Michele Curtis,'For special occasions you won't find a better place to go.Gail and Kevin Donovan are the absolute tops in service and food professionals.The water views and the wine list are also outstanding.'

Age Good Food Guide 2004 17/20

Herald Sun, citystyle, 9/3/04, Stephen Downes, Score 11/20,'If you don't mind competent, plain food with your view and an exceptionally relaxing ambience, then Donovans is for you.Mind you, you'll have to pay for it. The wine list, too, is vast and expensive, and even the seven table whites and seven reds by the glass are well above average prices.'

Age, Agenda, 7/3/04, Dani Valent

Gourmet Traveler Restaurant Guide Australia 2004, 2 Black Stars, Excellent wine list, Good vegetarian options,'Staggeringly successful, sublimely consistent and always hospitable.Donovans is a place for generous, well-crafted dishes which are consumed with enormous relish...The prices are high, but the value is undeniable.'

Vogue Entertaining & Traveller, March April 2003

Herald Sun, City Style, Dining Out, 29/7/03, Michael Harden

Age, A2, Food&Wine, John Weldon, 5/7/03

Sunday Herald Sun, sunday magazine, eating out, 2003, Sally Fisher

Age Good Food Guide 2003. Score 16/20

Age, Epicure, Restaurants, John Lethlean, 4/6/02, Score 16/20

The Herald Sun, 26.01.02, Bob Hart

The Weekend Australian, 22.09.01, Cameron Stewart

Or perhaps ...

Allegro (03) 9635 2222, Westin Hotel Melbourne, 205 Collins St, Melbourne - Hotel dining with a difference. A lovely view over the tree tops to the Melbourne Town Hall, a simple menu, a wood fired oven and a sense of casual elegance.

Donovans 9534 8221, 40 Jacka Blv, St Kilda - A comfortable restaurant right on the St Kilda beachfront. Good Italian food. Mains $30-$40.

ezard at adelphi (03) 9639 6811, 187 Flinders la, Melbourne - Teague Ezard is one of Australia's most creative chefs. His restaurant has softened over time making it a suitable place to enjoy his food.

No 35 9653 0000, , Sofitel Melbourne on Collins, 25 Collins St, Melbourne

Radii (03) 9224 1211, , Park Hyatt Melbourne (Off Parliament Pl), 1 Parliament Sq, Melbourne - Sydneysider, Anthony Musarra, has taken over at Radii, which is one of Melbourne's glitziest destination restaurants.

Stokehouse 9525 5555, 30 Jacka Blv, St Kilda - This is one of Melbourne's better dining rooms. It looks out over its summer balcony to the St Kilda foreshore and the bay.

The Willows (03) 9867 5252, 462 St Kilda Rd, Melbourne - One of the last St Kilda Rd mansions lives on as a restaurant serving a corporate clientele.